Italy Travel Guide: Where To Eat, Stay, and Shop In Milan

Milan is like a well-tailored suit: understated at first but striking at a second glance. True, the city doesn’t come right out and reveal itself the minute you meet, but, put in a little time, and it's clear that it's one of the most interesting cities in Italy right now. Hence the reason we love to travel to Milan on the regular. 

Milan often gets written off as not being "Italian" enough -- that the city is more European than Italian. But spend a few well-planned days there and we're sure you'll agree that Milan is a perfect mix of both modern Europe and old-school Italy.

Milan is well organized and has fewer Roman ruins than other parts of the country, but it’s Italian to the core with ferocious soccer fans, devoted coffee drinkers, and an unending love (and, to be honest, sometimes a frustrated hate) for their culture. And, as home to many national treasures —  from La Scala and the Sforza Castle to Da Vinci’s Last Supper and the Duomo — it's well worth it to travel to Milan.

Why Travel To Milan Now?

Milan got flooded with the global spotlight in 2015 when it played host to the World Expo (a sort of modern day "world fair") and nearly 20 million people visited. That meant that Milan went into modernization high gear with all sorts of urban renewal projects (from revialization of the Darsena to the Isola area), opening of new businesses, and it's resulted in a creative energy that shows the best of what Italy is right now. 

Before You Go

Plan Your Trip To Milan

When we talk to travelers about visiting Milan, there are a few questions we get over and over. Here are the FAQs about Milan:

How Many Days In Milan Is Enough?

Most travelers budget too little time in Milan if you ask us. On average, most people travel to Milan for just over 24 hours but, if you ask us, that is not enough time to really see the city. Plan at least two full days and nights in Milan so you can not only shop and sightsee in the city center, but also explore the less touristy but equally interesting neighborhoods.

If it's your first trip to Milan, you'll want to stay in the historic city center so you can see the most in the least amount of time. Oh, and in order to get to know Milan, make time to explore the less-central neighborhoods from the chic Brera shopping district to the quirky Chinatown and the just-renovated Isola area to the always-on Navigli neighborhood.

Should I travel to Milan or Venice?

Deciding on whether to travel to Milan or Venice is an apples to oranges situation if you ask us. If it's your first trip to Northern Italy, we highly recommend making time to see both cities. You can easily train or drive between Milan and Venice and, if you have the time, you can get to know the region by visiting the Lake District, wine regions, and towns along the way. If you need  specific advice, don't hesitate to ask us

What are the best things to do in Milan?

Well, deciding on what to do in Milan really depends on the kind of traveler you are. For culture and history buffs, you have the Duomo, the Museo del Novecento, the Villa Necchi, La Scala, and the Last Supper to visit. For shoppers, you'll want to visit the 5 Vie, Brera, and Quadliatero areas for the best boutiques. And, for food lovers, you'll want to visit the open air markets (we're partial to Papiniano and San Marco, shop the specialty food stores, and eat at the best restaurants (more on all of that below). 

Where To Stay In Milan

Milan is not nearly as touristy as the other major Italian cities — Florence, Rome, and Venice — so the question of where to stay isn't as hard. That's to say you can stay in the center of town without feeling overwhelmed by crowds (even in the height of tourist season). Here are a few choice hotels that we think are the best places to stay in Milan:

Total Splurge: Bulgari Hotel

Situated between the famous La Scala theater and the high-end shopping district known as the Quadrliatero della Moda, this 5-star luxury hotel is in one of our favorite neighborhoods in Milan. The only problem? It's so gorgeous (especially the garden terrace) that you'll have to force yourself to go outside!

In The Mix: Room Mate Giulia

This Spanish boutique hotel chain is one we turn to time and again when we’re traveling through Europe but their 4-star Milan property is one of our favorites. With fabulous service, a delicious breakfast, mod-meets-neon décor, and a can’t-be-beat location steps from the Duomo, it’s worth every euro.

Chic Design: Hotel Viu

In the past few years the Porta Volta neighborhood — just steps from fashionable Brera quarter, a stone’s throw from the noteworthy Cimitero Monumentale, and nearby modern Isola neighborhood — has been modernized and green-ified thanks largely to the Feltrinelli Porta Volta project and is one of the best places outside the history city center to stay. Just a 15-minute walk from the Duomo, the  4-star Hotel Viu is a modern boutique hotel with all sorts of perks from a pool to a spa to great food and even a rooftop with a 360° view of the city.

Close But Quiet: Senato Hotel

Previously the private home of the Ranza family, the family converted the space into 43-room 4-star boutique hotel that they opened in mid 2015. With a chic and super minimal design and top-notch hospitality, you could easily spend your day enjoying the curated cocktails at the bar or in the private patio. Its prime location near the famous shopping district of the Quadrliatero della Moda, around the corner from the Modern Art Gallery, and less than a 10-minute walk from the Duomo means you can make the most of your free time. Also, it's where we stay for our Salt & Wind Milan group trips so be sure to mention us if you go!

Navigli Life: Maison Borella

This oh-so-adorable 4-star boutique hotel has 25 rooms centered around a courtyard so it feels more like an apartment buidling than a hotel. The hotel's location on the Naviglio Grande (grand canal) means its outside the city center but very much in the mix, especially in the summer months when the area becomes filled with people bar hopping along the canals. Despite the tons of foot traffic, the hotel is pleasantly calm. Oh, and we love the breakfast!

Great Value: Hotel Milano Castello

For something a bit smaller — as in just 30 rooms — and smackdab in the city center, check out the just-opened Hotel Milano Castello. This affordable 3-star boutique hotel is minimal in its offerings but has tasteful décor, great service, and a cannot-be-beat location between the stylish Brera neighborhood and the Parco Sempioine.

Milanese Food To Cook

For a full list of the local dishes to eat when you're in Milan, check out of our full list of must-eat local Milanese food. But, to get into the Milanese spirit before you even arrive, make a few of these Milanese recipes before you leave!

  • Risotto alla Milanese: Made with saffron, butter, rice, and lots of stirring, this dish is simple yet so indulgent.
  • Basic Polenta: This is a classic cold weather dish in this corner of Italy.
  • Negroni Sbagliato: Happy hour is practically a sport in Milan and our drink of choice is this twist on the Negroni where Prosecoo replaces gin. 

Once You're There

Where To Eat: High-End Meals

Spazio Milano

Tucked into the top of the Mercato del Duomo, it can feel a bit like you might be heading into a food court when you take the escalators up from the Galleria to Spazio. But when you arrive, it’s anything but. The restaurant is associated with the prestigious Romito culinary school and is staffed by young chefs from the program whose cooking feels anything but. Not to mention the view out onto the Piazza del Duomo is only rivaled by the Aperol Terrace (below).

Alice

Yes, this restaurant is in located on the top floor of an old theater. And, yes, that theater is now Eataly Milan but that’s all the more reason to go. The restaurant was originally opened in 2007 by chef Viviana Varese and sommelier Sandra Ciciriello but relocated to Eataly in 2014. The one-star Michelin restaurant focuses on farm-to-table produce but never takes itself too seriously. 

Where To Eat: Casual Meals

Taglio

One of the things that Milan does best? Riding that line between old school Italian traditions and modern mentality. Taglio is a restaurant that does just that with dishes that are familiar — from Risotto Milanese to stuffed zucchini blossoms — updated with farm-fresh produce and contemporary twists. Open all day from breakfast through dinner, the spot seamlessly changes from a coffee bar (with great eggs benedict!) to a light lunch spot and to an aperitivo and/or dinner spot later on. 

De Santis

Going strong since it opened in 1982, this panino shop is a classic in Milan. With over 200 recipes, you'd be hard-pressed to find a panino you don't like. Stop by here for a quick bite on your way to see the Last Supper or before shopping the chic 5 Vie neighborhood. 

Where To Aperitivo

Aperitivo isn’t merely the Italian answer to Happy Hour but really a total ritual and Milan leans into the tradition. Come Happy Hour, you can head to many bars for a drink (often served with a few choice appetizers) but here are our picks:

Aperol Terrace

Look, if you’re visiting Milan and it’s warm out, you’re probably going to want two things: an Aperol Spritz and an alfresco view of the Duomo. The folks at Aperol made both those things a possibility with the chic, albeit often packed and a bit pricey, Aperol Terrace but it’s hard to pass up the view. 

Radetzky 

Yes, this place is a total scene but it's worth experiencing at least once. You might literally bump into a celebrity or famous model while ordering your Spritz. Located in the fashionable Brera neighborhood on the pedestrian street known as Corso Garibaldi, you can start (or end) your night here before hopping to a nearby restaurant. 

The Botanical Club

With two (and soon three) locations across the city, you can choose which Botanical Club you want to visit. Not only are the locations gorgeous in terms of design but the original location is also Italy's smallest gin distillery. Go for a chic and tasty aperitivo but stay for the cocktails. 

Where To Cocktail

To be honest, you could get a great aperitivo (ie snacks and sips) at the below bars too. However, if you're looking for a peek into Milan's mixology scene, these are a few of our favorites:

Bar Basso

Opened right after World War II, Bar Basso is a classic Milanese Bar. It’s also credited with making my favorite twist on the Negroni, the Negroni Sbagliato or the “incorrect Negroni,” which is a Negroni made with prosecco instead of gin. So, obviously the play is to head to Bar Basso and try the drink where it was created.

Mag Cafe

The Navigli neighborhood is pretty much always busy come night time with everyone from university students to professionals hopping between bars and restaurants. For aperitivo in the area, it’s hard to do better than than Mag Café where the Parisian chic atmosphere is only topped by the quality of the cocktails.

Oh, and if you want something super unexpected to wow your S.O., book a spot at the bitty sister bar known as Backdoor43. Located just next door to Mag this spot allows anyone to walk up and order a cocktail to go, but it also has the "world's smallest bar," as in a thimble-sized space that seats two where you can get VIP treatment from the mixologist! P.S. Need help with a rez? Hit us up at travel@saltandwind.com for help!

Morgante Cocktail and Soul

Also in the Navigli neighborhood, this bar is tucked back on the Vicolo Privato Lavandai (a little alley historially used for washing laundry hence the bitty stone trough on the side of the alley). The bar not only has great drinks but also a cute little greenery-covered patio that's perfect during warm weather. 

Where To Shop

It’s pretty much sacrilege to head to a fashion capital like Milan and not shop. You could and should hit up the high end stores on in the renowned "Quadrilatero della moda" (aka the area wround Via Montenapoleone) or the more midrange chain stores near the Duomo and the Galleria, but love Milan for its independent boutiques. We do a full shopping tour on our Milan group trip but here are a few spots to go if you're on your own: 

10 Corso Como

Credited as the O.G. concept store, 10 Corso Como has been around more than 25 years and yet is every bit as interesting as ever. Handing out among the art gallery, restaurant, store, and the mini hotel, you could spend hours here and love every minute. 

Cavalli e Nastri

If you’re going to shop in Milan, you pretty much have to shop at the vintage mecca that is Cavalli e Nastri. And make sure you give yourself plenty of time to wander the surrounding neighborhood of Brera because is one of our favorite places for boutique shopping in the city. 

Excelsior

If you only shop in one spot in Milan, have it been the high end department store, Excelsior. To be honest, to call this place a department store is accurate but also deceiving as it way more design forward than any department store we’ve seen. We love it as much for the impossibly chic vibes as we do the tastefully curated gourmet food store.

Atelier VM

This Milanese jewelry boutique may be small but the few jewelry pieces it has are all high on our want list. But what Atelier VM is really known for is their L'Essenziale collection of delicate bracelets which are welded directly onto your wrist in store for an impossibly chic look. 

BallereTTe

The BallereTTe shoes are inspired by classic dance but are bold in their colors and designs. They're the kind of shoes you might not notice until, you know, you notice them after which point you see them on every other woman. There are BallereTTe stores in Rome, Milan, and Florence so if you don't visit in Milan, you'll likely have a few more chances on your trip to Italy. 

Great Views In Milan

If you're all about that Instagram, we hear you! Here are the places to go for a spectacular view of Milan: 

Ceresio 7

On the edge of the up-and-coming Chinatown neighrboorhood at the top of the DSquared offices, is the oh-so-chic bar and restaurant known as Ceresio 7. Snag a poolside table to take in the view that spans from the city center to the newer Isola neighborhood. It’s as perfect a place for a light summer lunch (perfect after visiting nearby Cimitero Monumentale) as for a full aperitivo.

Radio Rooftop Milan

Set on the roof of the ME Il Duca Melia hotel in Piazza della Repubblica, Radio Rooftop is continuously one of the most sought-after aperitivo spots in town. Yes, the scene can get to be a bit much and the drinks a bit too pricey but the views make it all worth while. 

Caffe Triennale

At the edge of the Parco Sempione is the modern art space known as Triennale and the rooftop has a great view over the majority of the park. Go for a coffee break during the day or reserve a spot at the Terrazza Triennale for dinner.  

Essential Things To Do In Milan

  • Book ahead if you want to see opera at Teatro La Scala (FYI, the season runs from St Ambrose Day on December 7 through the Spring)
  • Book even farther ahead if you want to see Da Vinci's Last Supper 
  • Wake up super early one morning to climb to the Duomo rooftop for an amazing view
  • Ride one of the classic street cars at least once

Day Trips From Milan

  • Do a classic day trip to Lake Como
  • Head to Piedmont to hunt for truffles, taset wine, or just to eat!
  • Head to Franciacorta for sparkling wine tasting

Need help planning your Milan itinerary? We specialize in just that! Read a little about our concierge and itinerary planning services here. When you're ready, send us an email at travel@saltandwind.com or fill out this quick survey and we'll get right back to you!

More Milan On Salt & Wind


Did you know we lead boutique group trips for food lovers to Italy? Come join our next Salt & Wind trip!

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Updated July 2018

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